an island field station seen from the air

A History of the Carrie Bow Cay Station

The Smithsonian's Field Station in Belize
Introduction

On a tiny island off the coast of Belize, scientists embed themselves in the nearly pristine reef and mangrove habitats of the coastal Caribbean. For over 50 years, Carrie Bow Cay and the surrounding cay system has served as a living laboratory, supporting the work of hundreds of scientists from around the world. Though only an acre in size, the island and its research laboratory have had a monumental impact on coastal marine research. Steps from the ocean, the Smithsonian’s Carrie Bow Cay Field Station enables researchers to immerse themselves in the environment in a unique and special way which has often led to new discoveries unfathomable without such access to coral reefs and mangrove forests. 

Carrie Bow Cay is one of many island cays that form the Outer Barrier Platform, a shallow area of barrier reefs and mangrove islands off the coast of Belize. This barrier reef is the largest continuous reef system in the Western Hemisphere, extending more than 150 miles (250 km) between Ambergris Cay in the north and the Sapodilla Cays in the south. Towards the shore from the barrier reef is the Shelf Lagoon, a 15 miles (25 km) wide area less than 10 miles (15 m) deep that is rich in biodiversity with coral reefs, seagrass beds, and mangrove forests.   

During the 1970s, Smithsonian scientists fostered a relationship with the island’s owners, the Bowman family, and together they built a premier research laboratory right in the middle of Belize’s barrier reef.  As the years continued the once primitive facility grew to support hundreds of scientists annually with new laboratories and equipment to support their research. A station manager, once a coveted volunteer position, lives on the island and supervises visiting researchers, local support staff, and a station chef.

a black and white of a tropical island

The Cay Before

1900-1975
1919

Purchase of Bird Caye

The British Honduras government (now Belize) awards land to veterans who fought in Mesopotamia in the Middle East during World War I. Most veterans opt for land in the Mesopotamia area of Belize City, a neighborhood with street names of Middle Eastern origin. One veteran from Stann Creek requests a small, uninhabited cay known for its birds and sea turtle nesting. The cay is known as Ellen’s Caye or Bird Caye. In a time of hardship, the man sells the island to William Alexander Jex Bowman, a citrus pioneer from Stann Creek.

an island in black and white from above

Aerial view of Carrie Bow Cay looking northwest. South Water Cay (right) is a reef island on the barrier trend; Twin Cays (left) is a mangrove island in the shallow lagoon.  

1942

Naming Carrie Bow

Henry Thomas Anthony Bowman, a prominent citrus farmer, buys the island from his father. He renames the island after his wife, Carrie and ferries out a house in sections. Upon purchase, the island is two acres in size. Bowman also builds a 90-foot-long concrete boat dock, which is famed for its beautiful tile work. Many island visitors later reminisce of its beauty. 

a tiled dock leads to a tropical island

The original tiled dock leads to the island.

1944

Bowman Removes Mangroves

Bowman, bothered by the mosquitoes, removes the mangroves from the island, a decision he later regrets. Mangroves naturally build islands and prevent erosion, and a lack of mangroves means the island gradually shrinks in size. 

1959

Mapping of the Cays

The first investigations focusing on the cays and reefs of Belize are undertaken by the "Cambridge Expedition to British Honduras" led by J. E. Thorpe. Part of the investigation includes mapping 40 cays, including Carrie Bow Cay, and collecting samples of their flora. 

a sketch of an island

The original sketch of the island from the British Survey. (Cambridge Expedition to British Honduras)

1960s

IMSWE Program is Established

The Smithsonian Institution establishes the Investigations of Marine Shallow-water Ecosystems program (IMSWE, a precursor to Caribbean Coral Reef Ecosystems Program) with the mission to document coral reef diversity, community structure, and other environmental processes. The Caribbean is deemed the best system to study, given its proximity to the Natural History Museum in Washington, DC. With limited funds they buy an inflatable boat with a horse-powered outboard motor and begin the search for a permanent field station in the Caribbean.

a man exits a small boat full of people

The team included (left to right) Walter Adey, Arthur Dahl, Tom Waller, Klaus Rützler, and Arnfried Antonius.  

1972

Glover's Reef Workshop

A Smithsonian sponsored coral reef workshop at Glover's Reef, Belize gathers coral reef scientists to discuss the future of the program. Program founders Arnfried Antonius and Klaus Rützler return to collect and store their equipment and stumble upon Carrie Bow Cay while taking a shortcut from the reef to Dangriga. They learn it is owned by Henry T.A. Bowman, also the owner of Pelican Beach Motel in nearby Dangriga. 

a sketch of the station

An artist's portrayal of the station.

1972

The Bowmans lease Carrie Bow to the Smithsonian

Rützler meets with Henry Bowman Jr. and Alice Bowman and together they agree to lease the southern half of the island to the Smithsonian for three to four months per year. The initial facilities for the science team are primitive and intimate. The facilities consist of a small three room building with a tin roof which included a lab, living quarters for two, and a kitchen. A stone throw away is a small shed that houses two, a tent that accommodates six, a dive compressor and a small generator. The shower consists of a spray-head on a pipe screwed into the bottom of a huge wooden vat where collected rainwater runs in from the roof.  After a few years, a room in the main house is used to house the station manager. The island is remote and removed from the modern world—communication with the mainland is limited to only a shortwave radio to call Pelican Beach for supplies. A local cook prepares meals for the station inhabitants.  

a pelican sits on a worn sign

An early sign indicating the island as a restricted area.

1974

Hurricane Fifi

Hurricane Fifi hits the island, killing most of the plant life on the island. About 20 percent of the coconut trees also die (16 total trees). Some coastal erosion reduces the island's size by about one third, but much of the sand is redeposited only months later. 

before and after shots of palm trees on a tropical island

Hurricane Fifi removes many trees from the island. 

1975

Reef Report Describes New Species

An initial report on the local reef with a map of the area is internally published by the Smithsonian. Despite being one of the best studied geographic regions many new species are discovered. 

a scuba diver places a PVC frame on the reef

 Sara Lewis measuring algal abundance in a quadrat frame on the reef flat.

1975

Exxon Grant Supports Station

An Exxon Corporation grant doubles the budget for Carrie Bow Cay field operations, providing stability and security to the fledgling field station. Many new projects are given the green light. 

a scientist peers through a microscope

Klaus Rutzler studies a specimen through the microscope.

a station on an island with a dock at sunset

Humble Beginnings

1975-1985
1976

Detailed Aerial Maps

Captain Graham Thomas of the Royal Signals Detachment is detailed to Belize to support the training of British forces in jungle environments. A helicopter pilot, he takes aerial photos of the reef that help create detailed maps of the area. Prior to this information maps were based on surveys conducted in the 1830s with minor updates in the 1940s.

several overlaying photos create an image of the island

Captain Graham Thomas of the Royal Signals Detachment takes aerial photos of the reef surrounding Carrie Bow Cay. 

1976

Helium Weather Balloon Maps Carrie Bow

A helium weather balloon launches from Carrie Bow to increase map resolution.

two men work on a beach with a massive, white balloon and helium tank

Hans Pulpin and Klaus Rützler prepare the helium balloon.

a helium balloon rises over the island.

A helium balloon rises over the island.

1977

Core Samples Reveal Island's Geologic Past

The geology team drills the first core sample to study the history of the reef. They find that the Outer Barrier Platform, the shallow reef that protects the inner lagoon, likely formed relatively recently in geologic time, within the last 7,000 years. Much of the rock bed is composed of coral rubble, indicating it was likely swept in and deposited by the unique topography. 

scuba divers work on an underwater drill site

A diver-operated hydraulic drilling rig at one of the drilling sites.   

divers drill underwater

Divers drill at one of the drilling sites.

1978

Hurricane Greta

Hurricane Greta passes over Carrie Bow Cay, damaging equipment, removing the laboratory wall, destroying the small house and outhouses. Severe erosion from the wind and waves removes significant portions of the island and 30 coconut trees. Most of the elkhorn (Acropora palmata) and the fire coral (Millepora complanata) is reduced to rubble and water visibility, usually crystal clear, remains to 10 feet (3 m) for two weeks following the storm. The lagoon, usually a salty 35 percent salinity drops to 25 percent.  

two side by side images of a coral reef where one has lots of coral and the other is void of coral

Extensive Acropora and Dictyota corals on a sand and rubble bottom (L). Following Greta most of the corals and large quantities of sand were transported toward the lagoon.

1980

SWAMP is Formed

The Smithsonian Western Atlantic Mangrove Program (SWAMP) is launched, with special interest on the dense mangrove forests on nearby Twin Cays. Many scientific illustrators worked on the project to help catalogue life in the mangrove forests and share their often-overlooked beauty.

two people crouch in the water

Two scientists work in the mangrove forest.

1982

Black Band Disease Spotted

Black band disease, first observed by Antonius in Belizean reefs in 1972, makes its first appearance in the reefs off of Carrie Bow.  It is the first described coral disease.  Corals begin to show signs of black band disease, a coral disease characterized by a blackened band of infected coral tissue that spreads across a coral colony, ultimately killing the coral. Black band disease is ultimately found on 40 coral species throughout the world. 

a round coral is tan on one side and white on the other with a streak of black in the middle

Black band disease discovered just outside the reef crest near Carrie Bow Cay in 2007.

1984

Weather Station Installed

The first weather station is installed near Carrie Bow on an elevated wooden platform. The added data source helps scientists better understand environmental factors that affect local marine life. 

a tropical island from offshore

Carrie Bow Cay during the 1980s. (Smithsonian Institution)

a tropical island from above

Caribbean Coral Reef Ecosystems Program

1985-2000
1986

Updates to the Station

As scientists continue to visit the station, it becomes apparent that updated housing and equipment is needed. The big house is remodeled to include dry lab space, a library with a computer, and additional living quarters. A new sound insulated shed protects the compressor-generator, which is used to both power the station and fill scuba dive tanks. The station also adds much-needed propane gas refrigerators to store samples, solar panels and an improved radio system. Other lab equipment and the weather system are updated.

a man sits on top of a roof covered in solar panels

New solar panels power the station.

a man stands nexts to a large elevated vat of water

Operations Manager Mike Carpenter installs a large storage tank for a seawater flow-through system.

1989

Science as Art Exhibition

An exhibition titled “Science as Art” at the Smithsonian’s S. Dillon Ripley International Center in Washington DC showcases the illustrations of mangroves at Twin Cay.

a drawing of the underwater mangroves

A characteristic intertidal red algal cover (Bostrycbietum) on red-mangrove prop root, with mangrove oyster, mangrove crab, and periwinkle.

worms, algae and mangrove leaves

A close-up of peat-bottom community with algae, fallen mangrove leaves, sea anemone,and sabellid tube worms.

1995

New Weather Station

A new weather station is established by Tom Oppinshinsky.

1993

Launching of the Physalia

Launching of new boat (25 ft) Physalia.

a man tends a small boat at the end of a dock

The dock at the station and one of the boats.

1996

Creation of South Water Cay Protected Area

Researchers at CBC discover that the Pelican Cays, a system of cays southwest of Carrie Bow Cay, are especially diverse with many species from both mangrove and reef habitats living together. Discussions with Belizean officials initiates the creation of the South Water Cay Protected Area, a marine protected area covering 117,875 acres.

a lush island from above

An aerial photograph of Cat Cay showing mangrove, reef ridges, and deep lagoons (Manatee Cay, left, and Fisherman's Cay are in the background)

a coral reef with sponges and mangrove roots in the background

Coral Ridge (Agaricia, Palythoa) with sponges (Chondrilla) at Cat Cay lagoon entrance (sponge-covered mangrove roots in background). 

a close up of a brittle star on a blue sponge

A close-up of ascidian (Clavellina)-sponge (Monancbora, Spirastrella) community, enveloped by brittle star arms, on Manatee Cay mangrove root.

1996

"Eusocial" Shrimp Discovered

Visiting scientist Emmett Duffy discovers a species of snapping shrimp that forms a social structure similar to bees. The shrimp live within sponges and form a colony of up to 300 individuals with only one reproductive queen. It is the only known instance of the “eusocial” colony structure outside of insects. 

two shrimp with large claws face each other

Two snapping Synalpheus shrimp face on a sponge. (Emmett Duffy)

1997

Launching of second boat.

Launching of the second boat.

a boat sits in the sand next to a shack

A boat sits on the beach by the station.

1997

Fire Destroys Station

On December 6, a devastating fire destroys the station. Old wiring likely creates a spark that easily ignites the station’s termite riddled wood.  Fueled by windy weather, the entire station burns to the ground. Valuable research equipment and the library are lost.

flames engulf several wooden buildings

The volunteer station manager at the station took this photo as he fled the island. (Smithsonian Institution)

1998

Hurricane Mitch Hits the Island

Hurricane Mitch, a category 5 storm, hits the island. The staghorn coral are reduced to rubble. 

corals covering the seafloor

In 1978 staghorn corals covered the seafloor. Shortly after, disease decimated the staghorn corals and more than 98 percent of the corals were lost. Storms and hurricanes further harmed the corals. (Smithsonian Institution)

1998

Rebuilding of the Station Commences

Rebuilding of the station commences. Cuban trained architect Hedel Gongora, a friend of the Bowman family, designs and builds a new laboratory.

a journal is opened to pages of handwritten entries and watercolors of fish and a lobster

One of the great losses of the fire was the library. A visitor logbook with entries dating back to the first years of the station is lost. Here is a picture of a more recent entry.

1999

New Building is Completed

The new building is completed. An anemometer, an instrument that measures wind speed and wind pressure, and a weather station are included. 

a blue building with wrap around porches on a tropical island

The new station.

the station

A Station Amid Climate Change

2000

Candy Feller plants hundreds of mangroves in an effort to restore mangrove forests to the island and help with coastal erosion. In 2019 there were still a few but now they are gone.

a mangrove seedling in the water

A mangrove seedling on one of the nearby cays. 

2001

Hurricanes Iris and Michelle

Hurricanes Michelle and Iris barely miss Carrie Bow. 

big waves crest near a tropical island

The station weathers a bad storm in 2001.

2009

New Director

Founding Director Klaus Rützler steps down as Director of the CCRE program. Valerie Paul, the Director and Head Scientist at the Smithsonian Marine Station at Fort Pierce, Florida steps in to fill the position. 

A group of scientists

Paul (at left in blue) at the Carrie Bow Cay field station in Belize in 2014 when Smithsonian Secretary Clough (at center right in floral shirt) visits.  (Courtesy of Valerie Paul)

A woman scuba diving among seaweeds

Paul collecting specimens in the Florida Keys. Paul has done significant research into the various kinds of bacteria that live on corals, and has identified different ways bacteria and probiotics can both help and harm corals. (Photo by Lindsay Spiers)

2011

Station Upgrade

Carrie Bow’s infrastructure is upgraded, including the installation of solar panels, composting toilets, and a new generator.

a tropical island from offshore

The station as it was in 2013. (Smithsonian Institution)

2014

MarineGEO Uses CBC for Study

The Smithsonian’s new Tennenbaum Marine Observatories Network (aka MarineGEO), a marine biodiversity program aiming to monitor marine life across the globe, establishes Carrie Bow as one of its key sites. A team of scientists converge on the island every year to monitor marine biodiversity. The year also marks a visit from Smithsonian Secretary G. Wayne Clough.

a diver swims in an aqua ocean above coral

A diver works among the corals during one of MarineGEO's visits to Carrie Bow.

christmas worms grow on a brain coral.

Christmas tree worms grow on a brain coral near Carrie Bow.

a diver swims in an aqua ocean above coral and a ceramic plate

A diver checks a special plate on the reef. These plates, called arms, help scientists measure growth on the reef.

2014

New Platform

A new platform is added that includes a tide gauge, meteorological station.

a concrete platform above the water with a weather station

The weather station was added to aid MarineGEO surveys of the area. (Smithsonian Institution)

2017

The Island Slowly Errodes

After many years of coastal erosion, the island is less than an acre in size, less than half the size of the island when Henry Bowman, Sr.  bought it. Therese, Henry Bowman, Jr.’s daughter, adds sandbag projections to help slow erosion.   

the new station from above

An aerial photo of the station taken in 2019.

2018

A Toilet Upgrade

After decades of use, the old outhouse on the end of the pier is decommissioned to decrease the research station’s environmental footprint. New Composting toilets are installed, and though more environmentally friendly, they lack the view and charm of the weathered outhouse. 

an outhouse at the end of a dock.

The outhouse at the end of the dock. (Smithsonian Institution)

2020

COVID Pandemic Shuts Down Station

Research projects at the station comes to a halt as the COVID pandemic overtakes the globe. 

an anemone

The giant anemone Condylactis gigantea from the reef. (Zachary Foltz, Smithsonian Institution)

2022

SCTLD Appears on the Reef

Upon returning to the station, MarineGEO surveys the reefs and find Stony Coral Tissue Loss Disease (SCTLD). First reported off of Florida in 2014 the disease quickly spread throughout the Caribbean infecting over 20 species of coral. 

two brain corals side by side

Tagged Pseudodiploria strigosa (brain coral) colony before (left) and after (right) infection with stony coral tissue loss disease.